D-bah welcoming the moon. thos late arvo was just all time.. After spending all day surfin the superbanks in the best shape ever seen i just sat back and taped a bit of the action as the day came to an end. The banks are that perfect it's just ridiculous. How fun was the take off behind the rock, drainpipes below sea level spiced by that backwash lol but still makeable, and pure delight after that first section.
I got 3 barrels in one wave, twice! just too good ay..
wish I went for a sesh at nite, with those conditions it wouldabeen an all time moon powered surf, but went being a drunken cunt instead..
That little video bellow is worth watchin btw.. Music by John Butler Trio

Crispy May, Finally!

what can I say about it? I'll let it speak by itself. Yesterday arvo at Snapper and D-bah.

 

U could easily get out there without wetting your hair.. just a matter of timing.
Pic: sponger copping it.

 

Longman lol

 

Caba on Monday

 

 

 

 

I got that many amazing shots from yesterday arvo it gets hard to choose what to post..

 

Barely legal

 

The banks at Caba have been neatly packed.. prob the lowest rating point round here but it turns out to be delivering the most fun at the moment.

 

Good to remain on this side of the coast. sweet beach out the front..

 

Sick sunset #1591, this arvo.. back view from my new place. Spent the day pretty much doin fuck all after a hell busy mother's day yesterday..

 

Random ripper at D-bah on the 17th of April

Man down

 

Isn't it just farked when ur best mate leaves?
tchelao was the only person within 15,000km that grew up with me, and he left to Sydney yesterday to make some money & go to Indonesia. fair enough, that's still only 1000km away, but certainly too far to go for a surf or just cruise with the bloke. The good news is that I got my ticket to Bali already, for the 21st of August! and I'm pretty sure I'll be going to Brazil in early July as well.
It was a deadflat day, but quite a few developments..
Tchelao's farewell was on Saturday night in Byron, I got on it hardcore, but it was pretty lame really.. We all had a quiet one on Sunday and I worked on Monday.. Fucken yesterday was sick though, drove him to the airport, got my ticket and my motivation to work back. It's easier to paddle when you can see land.....

 

Ok, last week was the busiest of my life as yet. It was that full on it even created a fight between surfing and me. I can't believe that out of our 52 fucken weeks 2008 has given us they decided to bless this one with the best swell. Just the one during which I had to be moving places, working 10 hours a day and applying for my permanent visa..

However, I was succesful overall.. I see that kinda like as an ultimate proof of love for this country, since I did have have to watch those flawless lines rolling down the alley every morning from the balcony before I started solving my burocracies each day. I guess that the base of discipline is doing what you want more rather than what you want now, so no loss at the end of the day..

Now that I applied for that I got no excuses not to do heaps well anymore. It's like I'm marrying Australia.. and won't be able to fall back on being just an international student anymore when things go wrong. It feels good though.

Alrite, rewinding to Sunday 21st... nah, to Saturday. I planned to have a monster night at Surfers that nite, sonce I was granted a day in loo at work on Sunday. The plan was to go hard, sleep in that matress on the back of my car and hang around to watch the airshow the next day. What I didn't see coming was:

1- How epic snapper turned out on Sunday
2- The cops behind me when I was driving a little too excited ($476 for speeding & no seatbelt)
3- How hung over I was all day
4- That my day in lieu was over and i hadn't moved places

That was the worst planning of my entire life. With that much this coast has to offer I guess I went to wrong things. And to be honest even clubbin was pretty average for what you would expect from a Saturday in Surfers..

The Airshow was good fun, way better than the clubs anyway, I just didn't need to stay there for that long and much less to make any visits to my friends in that end of the coast.

All I had to do to heal my soul was to call sick any give day of that following week, but I just couldn't.. instead I struggled and did what I had to do as quick as possible..

Now I'm living on my own overlooking currumbin and got 5 days off in a row. Things are sweet, but the waves are as good as gone. So what's the fucken point? I feel betrayed by surfing in a way... but we gonna be friends again I'm sure. I'll be gone to visit Rio in July and most likely Indo as well straight from there. Thought of Europe too, but not just yet.. only when I grow a beard I reckon.

Anyway, I'm gonna go find something to do with these fucken flat days off.

Photo: I found the girl of my life at the Airshow lol

Sweet autumn

 

 

 

 

Awesome sesh yesterday with only a handful of hospitable spongers, I'll neva tell u where though.

 

 

South of the border fun

 

Mild knee high fun with mates last week. why can't we take shots of days with proper waves? maybe cause we r all out there..

 

Life as a worker has been a bitch at times, but pretty comfortable in a way.. I accepted going on a salary.. that means if I get hurt and can't work i still get paid, pretty sick! plus annual leave, days in lieu, sickies.. not bad. But sometimes I feel I shouldn't be there.. all the other chefs have been doin it their whole lifes, and even the apprentices have more experience and skills than me haha.
I still feel a little Frank Abagnale like at times.. but fuck it, it's actually pretty fun, specially when I get to do the barbecue on the beach and get paid for it. As they say.. just fake it until you make it.. not bad to be learning the tricks of a pretty big venue I guess.
Can't wait for daylight savings to finish, it'll buy me another hour of morning surf! I actually live in QLD and work in NSW, different time zones during summer.. things will be sweet from the 8th of April though.
Got the next 4 days off.. but no matter what I do, it'll still feel like I could've enjoyed it more..

 

 

Kelly just did it again. Just like in 2006, he won at Snapper and then Bell's puttin himself in a situation where he just can't refuse havin a go at yet another world title. This was the best news of the whole week!! the day he leaves the tour things just won't be the same..
The photos are of TB at the Quick pro, forgot to transfer them earlier.. better late than never!
And bloody Bede is goin off ay! I think he was happy cause I put his photo up last and made it to the final, almost becomin the guy to ring the bell, lol

 

 

drunken shots of 2 icons

 

Marcelo & Cara at the Jacuzzi. It's startin to cool down a bit.. gettin in there after surfin is imperative now, I've even cut a copy of their key!

 

Andreia in Brazil, random artistic shot.. makes me remember our bodies were made to be used.