Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Man down
Isn't it just farked when ur best mate leaves?
tchelao was the only person within 15,000km that grew up with me, and he left to Sydney yesterday to make some money & go to Indonesia. fair enough, that's still only 1000km away, but certainly too far to go for a surf or just cruise with the bloke. The good news is that I got my ticket to Bali already, for the 21st of August! and I'm pretty sure I'll be going to Brazil in early July as well.
It was a deadflat day, but quite a few developments..
Tchelao's farewell was on Saturday night in Byron, I got on it hardcore, but it was pretty lame really.. We all had a quiet one on Sunday and I worked on Monday.. Fucken yesterday was sick though, drove him to the airport, got my ticket and my motivation to work back. It's easier to paddle when you can see land.....
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Ok, last week was the busiest of my life as yet. It was that full on it even created a fight between surfing and me. I can't believe that out of our 52 fucken weeks 2008 has given us they decided to bless this one with the best swell. Just the one during which I had to be moving places, working 10 hours a day and applying for my permanent visa..
However, I was succesful overall.. I see that kinda like as an ultimate proof of love for this country, since I did have have to watch those flawless lines rolling down the alley every morning from the balcony before I started solving my burocracies each day. I guess that the base of discipline is doing what you want more rather than what you want now, so no loss at the end of the day..
Now that I applied for that I got no excuses not to do heaps well anymore. It's like I'm marrying Australia.. and won't be able to fall back on being just an international student anymore when things go wrong. It feels good though.
Alrite, rewinding to Sunday 21st... nah, to Saturday. I planned to have a monster night at Surfers that nite, sonce I was granted a day in loo at work on Sunday. The plan was to go hard, sleep in that matress on the back of my car and hang around to watch the airshow the next day. What I didn't see coming was:
1- How epic snapper turned out on Sunday
2- The cops behind me when I was driving a little too excited ($476 for speeding & no seatbelt)
3- How hung over I was all day
4- That my day in lieu was over and i hadn't moved places
That was the worst planning of my entire life. With that much this coast has to offer I guess I went to wrong things. And to be honest even clubbin was pretty average for what you would expect from a Saturday in Surfers..
The Airshow was good fun, way better than the clubs anyway, I just didn't need to stay there for that long and much less to make any visits to my friends in that end of the coast.
All I had to do to heal my soul was to call sick any give day of that following week, but I just couldn't.. instead I struggled and did what I had to do as quick as possible..
Now I'm living on my own overlooking currumbin and got 5 days off in a row. Things are sweet, but the waves are as good as gone. So what's the fucken point? I feel betrayed by surfing in a way... but we gonna be friends again I'm sure. I'll be gone to visit Rio in July and most likely Indo as well straight from there. Thought of Europe too, but not just yet.. only when I grow a beard I reckon.
Anyway, I'm gonna go find something to do with these fucken flat days off.
Photo: I found the girl of my life at the Airshow lol
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
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