Sometime in early may it all fell apart.. The banks were flawless for ages as u can see in the photos, I was going out at snapper, rainbow and greenmount everyday and there was no shortage of barrels. It felt like nothing could go wrong.. favourite board, warm water, not that crowded, fucken perfect. Dunno how but out of nothing a 2 fotter popped my shoulder out. It was meant to be my wave in it didn't stop growing n next thing I know there was a wide section and the lip must've hit the exact right spot to make the damage. The Pain was unbearable, never thought it would be so bad to pop a shoulder. I walked along the endless bank holding my fallen arm and dragging my board with the legrope. A dude helped me, then another dude and finally 2 off duty lifesavers left their end of shift beer to call me an ambulance. The ambo arrived and they gave me all types of shit.. it took them 4 tries to get my vein and inject morphine. It made me high enough to forget a bit about the pain. After an hour of messing around they tried getting it back in while I inhaled some nitrous thing that knocked me out. It didn't work, so they changed my position and got it. It didn't feel like they quite knew what they were doing but oh well.. at least my arm is still here!
The outcome is a minimum of 6 weeks without surf. Hence so many photos lol surf was still flat out firing everyday for over a week after that. kinda dropped and got colder now which i'm not complaining about.
while not able to surf, I finally had my citizenship ceremony on the 12th. It was wicked! the mayor gave it to me personally yeeow Stoked with that, but now my main challenge is over hehe need a new one.. thinking about what's next.
