Setting a goal may have made my life uneventful for some time, but it made me appreciate more of whatever fun I could get.
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Monday, October 10, 2011
Nias, October 2011
I’m back. Given my current circumstances, I
decided it’s time to resume my blog. The only problems is that I stopped almost
3 years ago haha
I could just skip it all and pick it up from right now.. but since I got so much time in my hands at the moment I’m gonna resume it from where I left it, in October 2011.
Surf trips are, ultimately, what I live for. Every time I go in one there are so many photos and so many stories that it makes me lazy just to think of processing it all. Nias 2011 was no different. I think we were only there for a couple of weeks, and besides all the good people I met and the new waves I surfed, what stuck to my memory the most was how incredibly warm the water was.
Another epic moment that I will never forget from this trip was a midnight solo surfing sesh.. the moon was gigantic! And the texture was as glassy as it gets. It felt magical, like I was actually surfing on the moon and not on planet earth.
We also check out Asu for a few days, which was beautiful but had the worst possible wind on it.
Even though our plane almost crashed on our arrival and we had to divert to Malaysia for a few hours, that was an excellent way to celebrate getting my Private Pilot’s license at that time.
Nias was one of passions from then on.
Thursday, September 15, 2011
SUP nigz
It didn’t take long until I was going crazy with the lack of swell. The excruciating urge to hop onboard of an Airasia 737 and leave to Indo ASAP was killing me. All my friends, with very few exceptions were in Bali. That was bad timing in a way because I was getting close to get my PPL and Julia, at an intense honeymoon stage of relationship, wasn’t quite fond of the idea. On the upside, she would join me to wherever I wanted to go from late September.
So the objectives were set, I had until the 29th of September to get my PPL and then we were off to Nias. To increase the pressure, we bought our tickets pretty much as soon as the decision was made. I always wanted to go to Nias, but it was essential to have the right company. She ticks all the boxes, but I was kinda worried she wasn’t gonna enjoy it as much as me.
Having that ticket in my hands was a pain soother, but I was still starving for action, so I surrendered and bought myself a SUP, yup, that’s right, I bought SUP! Best move ever. Teeny tiny days were now as fun as they were when I was a 12yo! To make it even more entertaining, my SUP is a 7'2. Staying on that thing for more than 3 seconds was a challenge in itself, I had many shockers until my first waves were even ridden. Nothing motivates me more than finding something almost impossible to do.. That's prob why I can spend hours playing video games when they're hard enough. As a consequence Julia started surfing a lot more as well.. Shit was on track again.
Defeated
Thursday, August 25, 2011
August 2011
And then August came.. As usual, the waves were gone, the water got even colder and I got even older. Somehow the banks were still pristine so it was well worth it to get out there and play around with the Gopro. Julia organized a really cool nice party for my bday but as usual I forgot to takes photos of it.. it kinda feels like my camera only works during the day. Flying activity was pretty steady, approaching my Private Pilot’s License.
28 and still working on that beard!
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
July 2011 - cold awesomeness
Basucally I defined what I want and established a method to achieve it. From there it was just a matter of getting deeper and more specialized in whatever it was that I wanted. Not having to chase chicks relieved quite a workload, meaning I was able to surf, study and work a lot more!
Ballina
Ballina
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Once the first solo monkey was off my back I had the best time.. heaps of dedication and a sense of pride of being in the right place at the right time. I regained the notion that I made the perfect choice of career, everything was there for the taking again and as much as the stakes were high, I was up for anything.
Image of my second solo circuit
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