24

Fuck yeah, 24yo now! A bit too early to say it's a good thing.. but it started pretty well in spite of some funny incidents.

For most people, August is the worst month of the year. I’ve been denying this fact all my life due to the fact it’s my birthday month, but let’s be honest here, it fucken sucks.
For teenagers it means going back to classes, for adults, the third ass freezing month of work in a roll and no signs of spring. For all south hemisphere surfers it consists in the idealization of the imperfect – the cold air/wind temperatures of winter lingers while the water reaches its coldest periods with the influence of easterly currents. We get an alternation between spring looking semi-flat easterly sunny but freezing water days and blown out southerly irregular overcast useless days. Because I broke my middle finger at the beginning of this month, it didn’t really bother me how fucked the waves were until I got better.

Although statistics don’t lie, this year seems to be trying to change the rules in order to achieve the title of best surfing winter ever. For starters, the banks on all the goldie points are atypically well shaped (or at least they were b4 this storm). On Tuesday 21st this swell hit a well structured superbanks, the fun went on till the 22nd arvo, when the 50knots southerly winds got beyond a joke and the banks weren’t quite holding up anymore. I surfed all I could in this first couple of days of swell. That means all my body could resist. In 2 waves, 3 if you’re lucky, you would be past Kirra.. after walking back all the 2kms to Snapper wet against that wind it was hard not to have another go, considering the number of insane barrels you’ve seen on your way up. So basically the numbers were: 2 days, 12 waves, 10 kms walked against the 50 knots wind, 3 hours of actual surf.

Kirra Mayhem

Obviously I was already feeling sick as hell at night on the 22nd. I asked Daniela to go get me a tea in the middle of that nite, she was deeply asleep so I went myself. Burning in fever, I just got the first thing I saw, some Chinese slim tea shit, 2 bags. Just having something hot coming down my sore throat was a relief regardless of the taste. Back to bed at 3, I didn’t really fall asleep again at all, my stomach started aching too. I check the last possible box of sickness: flu, sinus, sore throat, fever and now diarrhea.

A nice 2kms walk for any 2 of those mother fuckers you catch. Yet tottaly worth it.

Decent section in Kirra. I watched this same bloke getting about 6 extra deep and long barrels as I walked back to snapper. The crowd factor was nil with that undertoe though.

Not really having a choice, I went to school the next day anyway. Only when I got home I found out from Daniela that the godamn tea I had in the previous night was actually some diet shit that make you empty the crap out of your soul. No wonder there was nothing left. You’re only really supposed to have 1 bag and not squeeze it, not even let it sit for more than 5 minutes. Having two bags wasn’t exactly a smart move. I reckon that female porn stars must have that tea every morning to avoid shit dipping in camera action while backdooring. Anyhow, I was pissed. My state wasn’t consequence of a virus or anything, but a build up of stupid actions such as walking against Mr. 50 knots southerly over and over and picking the wrong freaking tea bags.

More Kirra action

Fuck it, I’m better now and it’s my bday. Still raining, biggest day of swell. Very generous birthday this one. It seems that everyone came through. My mum has helped me getting a sick new car, Daniela gave me an awesome guitar and a cake and Huey hand picked this date to be the biggest of the year here on the Goldie. Fair enough the banks are shredded by now, I’ll still paddle out and claim my gift even if it’s a 10 foot close-out just outhefront of my place in Mermaid.

I thought about getting an economical bitchy small one, but once u go wagon it's hard to go back.. she's just like Pegasus but newer, so much newer.. everything works, so fucken smooth.. so good I coudn't even name it yet. Thanks for the help Mum!

Sick guitar that one. I would never trust a girl to pick me a Surfboard, but Daniela and Music are just as close as me and surfing. She picked the hottest electric/acoustic noisy bitch (in a good way!).

A sweet finish: Chocolate & Strawberries, all cravings fulfilled on this date.