Steady times..

Been waking up at 6 everyday.. not much night life at all lately. this new job decided to roster me to 7 am on Sat and Sun after I requested to do my 20 hours in 2 days, hehe. I thought it was a shit go but it worked out to be awesome for me from a health and wealth perspective. The best outcome is that now I can surf 7 days a week again.
My mate Luiz bought a sick videocamera so we went hunting for waves on Tuesday. The only person out at Fingal was the Tour leader Mick fanning and the waves weren't that bad, so we got a few over there taking turns to tape each other.
After this sesh we checked all the south facing corners seeking sheltered conditions but the banks were shit everywhere. We ended up going out in Dreamtime for a bit more of taing and then called it a day. In spite of the amount of driving I've been getting far better waves up here on the goldie beachies.. real fun banks even when it's choppy.
anyway, it's all good.

Filmin sesh, yeeeew!

This lousy living forms are everywhere at the moment. They are like bluebottles that joined the army and got their hair trimmed, leaving only its ear-looking body to float around. the little turds don't cause as much damage as the blueys and they look alrite, so I decided to test my new wide lens on them.

This is Luiz. This bloke has been my class mate for nearly 2 years. Now we only have a handful of weeks ahead of us until everything is over. Little surf missions like this one, to Fingal, will become something a little more frequent when there's no more class to attend, I hope.

Tallows 3 days ago.. right swell direction, right wind but shitty banks. had a go at skimboarding..

Like every year during Indy, there will be rain.. Even if it's sunny.
Photos: Troy, the thunder, freaking out with the weather.

The conception of lost paradise becomes relative when you have too much access to it. This is dreamtime beach, the other side of Fingal. It may look great, but this was a month ago and it's still as flat as it was, if not worse.. I just finished a 68h working week, had enough ay, not in the best mood right now. At least I'm going back to school this week so will only be working 20h again. I went out in half a foot close outs out the front today with Anthony.. just to eliminate the rust.. now Troy, The Thunder (my new car) just got slammed by a hectic hail storm with the southerly change. I hope it brings some waves.. Troy should survive without dents the tough cunt.. but I don't wanna go check it.

Rio Special

Not much happening out here at the moment, so I decided to spend this flat monday to put together a big Rio issue. Hope y'all like it!

Local ripper Guilherme this year in Apoador

Having such stunning mother and sister is... Actually great! love you both

What a sick board that 6'5" was.. I brought it out here hoping to score some beasts fast enough, but before any big swell hit Sydney I ran out of money and had to sell it.. Fucken oath success demands sacrifice.

I.G.

Zaza making the move

Arpoador.. it's basically what divides Copacabana and Ipanema, but more than that, it's where my crew and me grew up.. it's where I caught my first waves with more than 2 seconds of length, Oh well, it's a sick little left hander point break that handles any size but it's fickle as hell in summer. Also it's where we all would take our first little girls for a walk or some shit, and where we would just sit all day making the most of that time that's now over.. for me anyway. Oh yeah, it's where I learned to skate as well.. i dunno, the list of what that place means in my world is just too big to carry on.
Don't mind the intruder ball, by the way lol

Do I look any younger in that photo? it was bloody 4 years ago.. haha I still don't have any hair.. but I guess my smile is not as innocent.

A morning Copacabana drainpipe

My Daniela loved the bikini I brought back to her from Brazil.

Ian going for it in Copacabana. It may be real fickle, but the P5 is my favourite spot ever. The favourite place of a surfer is highly linked to his individual history.. I must admit that G-land and a handful of other waves are way better, but I have such a strong connection with this place and get pissed off every time I miss a good day there, like the one in the photo.
Ian is ripping it in the comps by the way, let's hope he makes it to the Pro junior out here!

Check out my stomach when I was 5! In Copacabana with my sister.

That was the sickest little local boat trip.. Ilha Grande

Guto loving it.

I guess that growing up in the middle of crowds and shoredumps had a massive role in shaping my personality and my taste, but it also taught me to appreciate emptyness and thrive on loneliness. Being in Australia is like having the best of both words.. barrels everywhere and you live just around as many people as you wish to.. I'll never deny my eternal crush for Rio though.
Photo: another lovely drainpipe somewhere in Rio