Caio's "Corona moment"
First Sunset
Whadda hell can I say about Mexico? It tops all my surf trips to this date as far as surfing itself. I just love those kegs too much.
Whadda hell can I say about Mexico? It tops all my surf trips to this date as far as surfing itself. I just love those kegs too much.
I caught up with my good friend Caio for the trip. We were in a similar vibe.. trying to stay away from the night life and giving surfing all we have. Bungalows Zicatela in Puerto Escondido has got to be the most convenient joint on earth for me.. $12 a night to stay right in front of a hollow right hander breaking over sand. Not to mention the 4 pools, fast internet and best nachos ever! I could be there for years and years..
The first impression might have been perhaps too exciting for us… After 3 epic days, the banks got kinda funny and it started closing out too much, but La Punta started firing big time. I don’t think that place is meant to get that perfect. That dead straight offshore brushing 8ft walls must’ve been an accident I loved to participate of. Spewing I got no photos of it.. In fact, I wasn’t even meant to surf. I ran to the bathroom holding my belly 11 times on that day, but when I saw those waves it all got swept under the rug.
After getting Zicatela and La Punta the way we wanted it, we headed down to Barra de la Cruz in a rented car. We used much of our sweet talking to get through 3 army pull overs on our way there. I was kinda glad I didn’t speak Spanish that well.. My only participation would be dropping loose words like “Ronaldinho!!” or “Samba!!” to instigate trivial talk between the soldiers and Caio and get them distracted/captivated so we would move on faster. They were after big loads of coke, we didn’t want them wasting their time with us.
5 people and 5 boards squeezed in for a dawn session!Barra de la Cruz is one of those places.. so magical but not that great in pics. I had the longest barrel of my life there.. probably the deepest too, I still don’t quite understand how I got through that section but yeah, not complaining hehe
Back in Puerto, it took us less than 24 hours to decide to head to Barra de la Cruz again. The swell dropped the next day, so we went to this waterfall.. fucken mission. It seems that in Mexico the distance is calculated reversely. The first Mexican we asked said the that the waterfall was 10 minutes away. After half an hour driving and no signs of it, we asked a driver that was coming from the opposited direction, he said we were still 40 minutes from it. After another 40 minutes, a kid said it was 1:30 away!! Fuck me dead I thought.. In a group of 12 of us, I was the only one wanting to turn around and go back, but we kept on going for another hour or so to reach an unreal place. Yep, I was wrong lol It was absolutely worth it after all.
Back to Puerto again, we were hungry for big barrels. A giant swell never came.. I was expecting to face situations I’ve never been in before.. days twice as big as what I’ve ever seen. But in spite of the impressive consistency of the place, it never got huge during my stay. Nevertheless there were a bunch of amazing days. It didn’t drop below 4ft ever and barrels were always there.