Wednesday, September 21, 2005


It's 5:39AM now and the cold light comes gray as the days turns on cloudy. The forecast says that right now is the peak of the swell for this week. I just had a look and it's bloody glassy, no one out, Gray extra clean left handers out the front and that usual right hander peeling down the middle! Beautiful! sometimes isn't so bad to have insomnia.. I will take some photos b4 going out and post after. Cheers!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Nice barrels this morning