New Toy

 

The swell picked up agressively on monday arvo, hitting strong the south facing beaches. We had a bit in Manly and the points but nothing compared. I had to spend my precious surfing time to get something really important sorted: I got a car!!! It's my third car in Australia, in fact, it's not fully mine, I'm going halves with Julie. After a long time looking for the right one we decided to buy this Ford Laser from Michael, a Polish guy who I've been working with for over a year at Diva. It's pretty respectable looking.. I'll take a photo sometime. Anyway, I ended up not surfing, but deady's, Winki and the Bower were shit, the real action was at Dee Why Point. On Tuesday me and Rodrigo, my new flatmate, surfed Long Reef with bumpy 4 foot.. Nothing special really, but now I got a car! photo: Over rated deadman's on Monday, with 50 people watching and 30 fighting for a drop only wave. 

A goofy footer preserving his well being on monday at deadman's

Almost unbelieveble: a police boat! I'm already pissed off by having to worry about getting pulled over drunk when driving, but now they went too far! Maybe they will demand that surfers register their boars just like cars, haha! scary thought..

We spend this weekend away, in a place called Treachery 3 hours from Manly. On saturday it was alright, sunny afternoon, offshore and uncrowded fun waves, but from 2am to 6 pm there was a non-stop annoying rain on sunday and the waves were gone. Our tent became a fucking pool and the blankets, pillows and cloths were fully wet, hehe. Still, with Caio's Van there it wasn't much of an issue, since we could do our stuff there. This Camping has a hot water shower and shit, so much structure yhat it becomes too easy, haha! The bad thing is that I missed out a classic Narraben day on saturday, according to soem not-that-reliable reports from friends.. hehe, such is life..

The treachery camping site, where bush and sand meet.

The virgin sands of treachery.

Shitty rainy sunday

Saturday night

 

David, Caio, Wolfie and Me. I'll miss these guys a lot when I follow my way up the coast.. This party was just awesome, The actual purpouse was being only Rod's farewell (he's going back to Wales on wednesday) but it ended up being a major pre party booze full of good friends and chicks! 

 

David surrounded 

 

Obviously the house eventually got too small for the number of people, so we all snicked off to the Steyne, hoping not to look too drunk to the bouncers and get denied! 

Down South

 

In spite of the surfing not be that good, this last couple of days were heaps of fun! everything is possible when you have a campervan, so me, Caio, Kylie and David took off to the beaches down south on saturday. We spent some time in Bondi, Tamarama, Bronte, got lost a handful of times and finally found our way to Maroubra. The waves were pretty ordinary and there was a sick skatepark right on the beach, but I still prefer the lousiest surfing session than the greatest skateboarding. Also, the last thing I wanted was to get hurt, so I went out to surf alone. Ironically, after one hour and a bit of fun I fucked up my thumb hardcore! It's my second crooked finger in the same hand.. Fark, I should've gone skating.. haha! After an Idyllic rainy sunset and a bit more of skating and even soccer with some french frieds, we headed back to Manly for a big party in my place. Photo: with my crooked fingers after surfing in Maroubra. 

Caio and Kylie

Nico "Frenchman" and David "Mr Hungy Jacks" chilling at the carpark in Maroubra.

"The mouth of the perfecly happy man is filled with beer" hahahaha! On the road at the Back of Caio and kylie's Van, the most comfortable way to travel I ever came across.

Bondi Beach: pretty full for the australian standards..

Sick barrel at south Bondi on Saturday, hahaha, and about 20 people in it.

The reason why I haven't been posting for so long is that simply I have no idea about what's next and everyday (sometimes every hour) everything changes. I almost bought a few different cars lately until I finally found the perfect one. But now I found out that this one is way too dodgy, there's no paperwork, the rego is questionable, its in some random's name.. So i'll probably just let it go and keep looking. The idea is to buy it with Julie and go traveling up the coast with all our stuff (loads) for 3 weeks, so we need a big car. What's funny is that we are both horrible drivers, hahaha! If we do get there alive, I hope the car is in one piece too. Talking of surviving, we�ve been getting heaps of terrorist threats in bloody Manly lately! I don't know what wrong with this farkin world.. not to mention France, which is having a heavy civil war and people are currently not allowed to get out of their houses after 10pm (I saw it on the news this morning). Apparently The African and Arabic people resident in France are protesting against their social exclusion. Julie had a documentary movie project about it just b4 leaving to oz.. hehe, she would've scored big bucks for sure.. I felt a bit guilty for being the reason for her to come, but life has its choices and who knew it would happen anyway? One thing is sure, if those bastards mess with the Steyne, they're messing with me haha, that's why Im still going out, if I havent exploded in Bali this is not where it'll happen ay!
Photo: It may sound ironic, but amongst all the locations I love, Rio is the most secure and peaceful place to be at the moment, as u can see in this Ipanema's gorgeous sunset.