Tuesday, July 28, 2009






There was a stupidly big swell hitting it right outta front of my place, in Leblon, in my first week in Brazil. That was all time! my biggest (and only) board was a 5'11, so I swapped a pair of shoes for a 6'2 with Ian and paddled out. I snapped it in my third wave.. 5 of my mates broke their boards too, but the trophy goes to Pedro, who tackled this bomb up here. It would be even better if the mofo wasn't still claiming it 2 months later haha

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