Saturday, June 30, 2007

This June was probably the best month ever on the Australian east coast. not so much for the Goldie as it was for Sydney, but missing out in all those clean and tidy days between the 1st and the 23rd beacuse of my injury was depressing. When I got back on the game I didn't think that this month was gonna offer anything else, I was wrong. Lennox head was 6 foot of perfection on sunday 24th, spending the whole day there helped me getting the pace back. After having to look at my teacher's face for the last time on Monday and Tuesday before the Hols, I was facing a day that doesn't happen that often: 4-5 foot straight offshore. It took me quite a while to decide where to spend it.. I ended up out at Burleigh. Caught a few nice ones, but my surfing isn't anything special at the moment... I went to see a doctor at 3PM, he said my jaw is fine.. no need for surgery or anything. I can open my mouth 3 fingers high now, after almost a month only doing 2. normal people do 4 lol. After the doc I went back to the beach and took some photos with the tide coming in.. enjoy it.
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Flawless Burleigh Point. Heaps of fun when the tide was coming in.
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Long, clean lines coming through
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Miami, Burleigh and Currumbin in the same photo for the first time.
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Surfers..Puerto style alright.
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North Burleigh.. the beachies had the offshore straight on their faces.
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A small one sucking up on the inside
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Long arms at Burleigh
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Snapper
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The D-bah Boomie
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Monday, June 25, 2007

My beautiful dee
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365

Daniela and me completed 1 year on Saturday! We went out for dinner at that place where I had to kill the lobster. I gotta say that this venue is a lot more pleasant to be at from a customer's point of view than from the back of the house.
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Lennox
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Back in the scene


I haven't even posted anything during this time I had a stitch on my face and 2 broken teeth. As soon as I got better, the most stressing job came up. I managed to put up with it for 2 weeks and then bailed. My first fully free day was this sunday, I woke up early and headed south. After stopping at a friends place and losing nearly 2 hours because all his flatmates decided to join us 1 at a time, we ended up in Lennox Head. It was all time, extra long 6 foot righthanders peeling all the way.. barrels on the inside and shit. An impersonation of Jeffrey's, in some of the sections. Because I didn't surf for that long I definitely didn't make the most of it though, after 25 tortuous days of surfing absence it felt like my board was a cotton tip and my paddling was like in those dreams where you run as fast as you can and still barely move. A barrel in the first wave made it all seem worthwhile though.


After this sesh I pumped everyone to go check Boulders. The view we had when we got there was amazing! No one out, except for 3 dolphins that orderly shared the sets which exploded behind the rocks. Overall it wasn't really good cause once that first section finished it was just getting fat, and staying in the right spot with that undertoe was a duty that my arms weren't willing to do after deserting surfing for that long and coping lennox earlier on. Besides, I reckon that those dolphins were reincarnations of 3 local surfers that passed away over these last years. The harmony of the cetaceans was just too pretty to be compromised by us. We headed back to Lennox and then home. top Sunday, I gotta say.

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Boulders
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The south magnets had it good. Ballina's first head.
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Tchelao in Lennox yesterday
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Tuesday, June 19, 2007

They cook live seafood in that place… Norway people scientifically proved that a free range “happy” salmon tastes better than an aquarium one. It’s just amazing how whatever I do in this facken kitchen I have somebody teaching me a different way to do. They try to look like sick cunts by going fast and always cut themselves. I love it.

Tonight a little poofta waiter gave me a live lobster and told me to cut it in half. The bitch was fighting like a bloody Spartan. I finally got it down to the chopping board and, of course, the headchef came up to show me his way. When his finger got caught in between the lobby’s claws I thought for a split second that it was worth going to work for once. He was cut, I was clueless, the little pussy guy did it himself. The halves of that yummy thing were still moving… I couldn’t believe it! All that stress, in theory, would make it taste like shit. Some rich guy was still paying $100 for it though.

The bottom line is, if you ever become a cannibal, make sure you eat only unemployed single people, and shoot them in the head without warning.

Pic: just another creation originated by my endless boring classes
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Sunday, June 10, 2007

Ouch!

It was alrite while the waves were shit, but we just had 2 offshore days in a row and my stitch is still on my face! Now it hurts.. I don't even wanna go check it today, will have to wait till Thusday to get wet.
Photo: Main beach firing on Saturday
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Wednesday, June 06, 2007

Jaded

Which side of me do u like better? hahahaha had a little accident last Thursday.. a stitch, 2 broken molars and a massive swollen cheek. It looked so freaky that I didn't have the guts to post this photo until it started getting better. Pretty fucked up.. specially when u do on pathetic 2 foot sucky waves at Burleigh Point. Not the first injury and definitely not the last 1 either.. booh hoo me, fuck it, the waves r shit at the moment anyway, I'll be human looking again soon.
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