I haven't even posted anything during this time I had a stitch on my face and 2 broken teeth. As soon as I got better, the most stressing job came up. I managed to put up with it for 2 weeks and then bailed. My first fully free day was this sunday, I woke up early and headed south. After stopping at a friends place and losing nearly 2 hours because all his flatmates decided to join us 1 at a time, we ended up in Lennox Head. It was all time, extra long 6 foot righthanders peeling all the way.. barrels on the inside and shit. An impersonation of Jeffrey's, in some of the sections. Because I didn't surf for that long I definitely didn't make the most of it though, after 25 tortuous days of surfing absence it felt like my board was a cotton tip and my paddling was like in those dreams where you run as fast as you can and still barely move. A barrel in the first wave made it all seem worthwhile though.
After this sesh I pumped everyone to go check Boulders. The view we had when we got there was amazing! No one out, except for 3 dolphins that orderly shared the sets which exploded behind the rocks. Overall it wasn't really good cause once that first section finished it was just getting fat, and staying in the right spot with that undertoe was a duty that my arms weren't willing to do after deserting surfing for that long and coping lennox earlier on. Besides, I reckon that those dolphins were reincarnations of 3 local surfers that passed away over these last years. The harmony of the cetaceans was just too pretty to be compromised by us. We headed back to Lennox and then home. top Sunday, I gotta say.
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