Friday, January 11, 2008


Right at the dying stages of 07, the biggest swell of the year hit wild! and I didn't register cause it rained everyday! but who cares, got some epic waves down in kirra like 6 days in a roll. This sealed 07 as a pretty freakin consistent year I would say. One of Lucas' lessons was not to even bother trying to photograph rainy days, but I couldn't just let it go. This shot is from Tchelao's house in Greenmouth. Motha Fucka lives right on it!
So in this final days of the year I got this superbusy and tiring job 8 to 10 hours a day, then 25km South this solid swell holding 6-8ft at the Superbanks with an insane undertoe and, on top of it, free night time to spend with my mates I just couldn't ditch. Pretty demanding.. i managed to do it all and survive but got exhausted.
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