Have I mentioned my friends? Ok, this town is taken by Brazilians. Not really only us, there are heaps of Japs, kiwis and Aussies too, of course. The point is we are all after the same. I rather being in an unspoken competition with people genuinely like me than in a war against myself and the world trying to be who I am not. The atmosphere down here is not even closely as heavy as I expected considering the crowds. The beauty of it is the aggressive number of female surfers seen here.
Photo: Conrado sharing a wave with a Kayak dude at Fingal.