New Toy

 

The swell picked up agressively on monday arvo, hitting strong the south facing beaches. We had a bit in Manly and the points but nothing compared. I had to spend my precious surfing time to get something really important sorted: I got a car!!! It's my third car in Australia, in fact, it's not fully mine, I'm going halves with Julie. After a long time looking for the right one we decided to buy this Ford Laser from Michael, a Polish guy who I've been working with for over a year at Diva. It's pretty respectable looking.. I'll take a photo sometime. Anyway, I ended up not surfing, but deady's, Winki and the Bower were shit, the real action was at Dee Why Point. On Tuesday me and Rodrigo, my new flatmate, surfed Long Reef with bumpy 4 foot.. Nothing special really, but now I got a car! photo: Over rated deadman's on Monday, with 50 people watching and 30 fighting for a drop only wave. 

A goofy footer preserving his well being on monday at deadman's

Almost unbelieveble: a police boat! I'm already pissed off by having to worry about getting pulled over drunk when driving, but now they went too far! Maybe they will demand that surfers register their boars just like cars, haha! scary thought..

We spend this weekend away, in a place called Treachery 3 hours from Manly. On saturday it was alright, sunny afternoon, offshore and uncrowded fun waves, but from 2am to 6 pm there was a non-stop annoying rain on sunday and the waves were gone. Our tent became a fucking pool and the blankets, pillows and cloths were fully wet, hehe. Still, with Caio's Van there it wasn't much of an issue, since we could do our stuff there. This Camping has a hot water shower and shit, so much structure yhat it becomes too easy, haha! The bad thing is that I missed out a classic Narraben day on saturday, according to soem not-that-reliable reports from friends.. hehe, such is life..

The treachery camping site, where bush and sand meet.

The virgin sands of treachery.

Shitty rainy sunday

Saturday night

 

David, Caio, Wolfie and Me. I'll miss these guys a lot when I follow my way up the coast.. This party was just awesome, The actual purpouse was being only Rod's farewell (he's going back to Wales on wednesday) but it ended up being a major pre party booze full of good friends and chicks! 

 

David surrounded 

 

Obviously the house eventually got too small for the number of people, so we all snicked off to the Steyne, hoping not to look too drunk to the bouncers and get denied! 

Down South

 

In spite of the surfing not be that good, this last couple of days were heaps of fun! everything is possible when you have a campervan, so me, Caio, Kylie and David took off to the beaches down south on saturday. We spent some time in Bondi, Tamarama, Bronte, got lost a handful of times and finally found our way to Maroubra. The waves were pretty ordinary and there was a sick skatepark right on the beach, but I still prefer the lousiest surfing session than the greatest skateboarding. Also, the last thing I wanted was to get hurt, so I went out to surf alone. Ironically, after one hour and a bit of fun I fucked up my thumb hardcore! It's my second crooked finger in the same hand.. Fark, I should've gone skating.. haha! After an Idyllic rainy sunset and a bit more of skating and even soccer with some french frieds, we headed back to Manly for a big party in my place. Photo: with my crooked fingers after surfing in Maroubra. 

Caio and Kylie

Nico "Frenchman" and David "Mr Hungy Jacks" chilling at the carpark in Maroubra.

"The mouth of the perfecly happy man is filled with beer" hahahaha! On the road at the Back of Caio and kylie's Van, the most comfortable way to travel I ever came across.

Bondi Beach: pretty full for the australian standards..

Sick barrel at south Bondi on Saturday, hahaha, and about 20 people in it.

The reason why I haven't been posting for so long is that simply I have no idea about what's next and everyday (sometimes every hour) everything changes. I almost bought a few different cars lately until I finally found the perfect one. But now I found out that this one is way too dodgy, there's no paperwork, the rego is questionable, its in some random's name.. So i'll probably just let it go and keep looking. The idea is to buy it with Julie and go traveling up the coast with all our stuff (loads) for 3 weeks, so we need a big car. What's funny is that we are both horrible drivers, hahaha! If we do get there alive, I hope the car is in one piece too. Talking of surviving, we�ve been getting heaps of terrorist threats in bloody Manly lately! I don't know what wrong with this farkin world.. not to mention France, which is having a heavy civil war and people are currently not allowed to get out of their houses after 10pm (I saw it on the news this morning). Apparently The African and Arabic people resident in France are protesting against their social exclusion. Julie had a documentary movie project about it just b4 leaving to oz.. hehe, she would've scored big bucks for sure.. I felt a bit guilty for being the reason for her to come, but life has its choices and who knew it would happen anyway? One thing is sure, if those bastards mess with the Steyne, they're messing with me haha, that's why Im still going out, if I havent exploded in Bali this is not where it'll happen ay!
Photo: It may sound ironic, but amongst all the locations I love, Rio is the most secure and peaceful place to be at the moment, as u can see in this Ipanema's gorgeous sunset.

Big Time, Big Choices

 

I finally made my decision. Eventhough I know so well what I want, when it comes to decide how getting there it's not as simple. My initial plan was only to spend 5 months months here and go back to Rio to finish my Psychology degree. With so many new things coming across I ended up bitten by the travelling bug and fell in love with a particular country: Indonesia. Obviously it's just not possible to live there, the money is shit, specially because I don't have any qualification yet. Going from Brazil to Indo is something you do once in a blue moon, if ever, but from here it's just a handful of working days away, not to mention that oz itself absolutely rocks. So I made up my mind: I'm staying here and going over to Rio once a year from 2006 on. To get the resident visa, though, I would have to finish my degree here, but I can't afford the time it takes until you start to make real money with a profession like Psychology, so I had to find a shorcut. I hate kitchens, but this country desperately needs people who cook, and if I get my diploma on it, in two years I'll have my visa and a well paid job. From there, we'll see.. I might go back to Psychology (though I plan to do that only when I finally have some beard on my face) or stay cooking for a few years. Obviously what I really love doing, apart from surfing, is writing, so I'll keep hoping to get a job related to it sometime. I could't, however, stay a single more winter in Sydney, so i'm doing my Chef course on the Goldcoast, where the surfing goes off and the wheather is way warmer. Now I only have a month and a bit around here.. and I'd better make the most of it! 

Queenscliff. This place has been my playground for nearly an year now, it'll be somewhat sad to leave it all behind..

Nada como um Flatmate trampando no Burguer King.. O David ta caindo na sala a mais de um mes, eu acho, mas ate hj eu nao enjoei do bom e velho whopper. nesse dia ele chegou com uns 20 burguers, um pack de queijo e um sacao de calda de sundae, larica maxima!

Can you see the smile on the surfer's face? we 've been having pretty consistent surf lately, like 8 days over 3 foot and even now, after the long swell, there is still something to ride on!

Guerreiro dos nossos, Fernando comempla a dor do parto (ao meio!)

Gerando emprego

 

Interpretar previsoes e uma questao de pessimismo. Ja foi pior, antigamente somava-se 2 dias de atrazo e subtraia-se 2 pes a cada 5. Hj em dia erros menos brutais sao cometidos, mas de certa forma isso torna ainda mais dificil tomar uma decisao, porque sempre ha a possibilidade de eles estarem certos. supostamente o auge do swell seria quarta feira a tarde, entao eu deixei tudo preparado contando com isso, o coastal watch ate que tava indo bem nas ultimas previsoes, mas aquele vento sudeste tava que nem musica de festa do vizinho em terca feira a noite: por mais que vc acreditasse que aquela era a ultima meia hora, permanecia inconvenientemente eterno. Eu desisti de esperar as condicoes acertarem e me adiantei pro bower 12noon, aproveitando pra contribuir um pouco com a comunidade de Manly e gerar um empreguinho moleza: dei $10 por hora prum moleque fazer uns filminhos digitais das pedras com a minha maquina, hehe valeu a pena! Apesar de estar 1 lixo comparado ao dia anterior deu pra brincar.. so a luz que tava 1 lixo e o mar mexido, mas eh o bower, entao tem uma diversao envolvida, necessariamente. Winki pop e deadmans tavam horriveis, com o sudeste castigando, os tubos nao existiam e nao tinha graca.
Hj acabo a moleza! trampo e escola sem break.. mas nao eh tanta tortura assim, na real. A Julie (francesa de Bali 2004) chega aqui de volta amanha meio dia depois de uns 5 meses, e agora? sei la! vamo ve.. pelo menos ja tera uma voluntaria pras imagens da proxima vez! hehehe 

Oi, seriously, whats the deal with that bloody pink stuff covering the building at queenscliff? It hurts my eyes! u can see it from anywhere in Manly now, even from the goddamn bower, on the very opposite side!

My board seems to be pointing at it and wondering the same..

Snap

Cutback

Off the lip

Floater 1

Floater 2

floater 3

Magic week

 

Workin only 20 hours is the go.. thats what I surfed yesterday: 4 foot perfect winky/bower, and even scored a few by myself at deadman's! today it's even better, and guess what? I'm not working again!! yeeeu! Gone surfin' 

Surfing numbers

 

Photo: An example of shit wave we've been havin' this week.
I'm workin' less again, but this whole week was crap, too small.. today I almost left work earlier to try and surf some tiny ones, but then I had a very simple thought: I'm moving up to the goldcoast soon, where the salaries are quite less substantial, in contrast with the surfing. So when leaving work 3 hours earlier here, I would be losing about $48 in order to get 2 hours of shit surfing, which, in numbers, means about 15 shitty and 5 acceptable waves surfed resulting in an average of 30 maneuvers. In the other hand, on the goldcoast the average rate is much lower, so I would be losing only $30 by leaving earlier, and the surfing conditions, considering a standard day, would allow me to do 65 tricks in 2 hours, even if on only 6 waves, hehe!
The conclusion is that it's much more worth to get bored at work in sydney than up there, since you get so much more and lose so much less. Save ur lazyness to the Goldie! 

Hehe, I fucked up so hard this time that I decided to take a photo! Huge stain on the carpet made on saturday, I dorped a whole pasta dish! This kind of shit will sure take some part of the house's deposit.. hahaha, but it was hilarious anyway!

This was the best weekend since the last one! A one day swell came up on Saturday and made me happy as Larry, plus all the rest was going alright. Now I just came back from a barbeque at the lagoon near my house, good stuff. My holidays are finished, so it means that I’ll be workin only 20 hours a week again! Excellent. The swell forecast for this week is looking pretty good, but I got a shitload to do.. Still, I’ll probably be able to surf the best days. My house is buzy again now, with David, from Rio, staying in the sofa and the Kat & leo sharin the other room. it's all messy again, but who cares.. Just hope I still can get the bond back!
Ok, gone sleeping.

Strong offshore: the first one to get out there gets barreled!

Smooth conditions on saturday.. left hander out the front of my house.

Those fuckin' humans with silly bombs in my country..! They'll never find me here, goddamn assholes! And I got plenty of bananas to put up their whitie tighties if they come around ulu's with that exploding piece of shit.

Jimbaram bay bombardeada

Nesse mesmo dia no ano passado eu cheguei de Bali aqui de volta a Sydney. A trip foi tao dos sonhos quanto a desse ano, e os ultimas 5 dias foram dedicados a night, ja que o meu braco tava amassado e rasgado pelo reef de g-land. Se isso tivesse sido tudo igual mas esse ano eu acho que eu e a Julie teriamos morrido explodidos por ai.
E meio sinistro pensar nisso.. O povo de Bali tem uma inocencia e pureza incondicionais, mas os muculmanos estao plantando odio no coracao e ultrapassando os limites da paciencia deles. Sem Bali tal como nos o conhecemos (com o hinduismo e o turismo ajudando a economia), a Indonesia pode acabar se tornando um afeganistao da vida, um playground praqueles idiotas de turbante brincarem de cabum. Eles querem enfraquecer a economia e tomar conta da porra toda pra forcar o povo a se unificar como muculmano e se tornar uma porra de uma base militar!
revoltante.. eles nao tem nocao do que eh o arak, do que sao as norueguesas no Paddy's, e muito menos do que e atravessar a mil um tubo seco na ultima sessao em padang padang.. e ficam com essa lisura de matar neguinho.
Deixo aqui minha compaixao pelo povo hindu e revolta com aqueles vermes jihadiantes que insistem em dar rasteiras no lugar mais maravilhoso do mundo.

A visao de quem ta la. por Darcy - Waves

A Ilha de Bali sofre de novo com mais uma série de atentados terroristas.

A bomba explodiu a menos de 100 metros da minha casa em Jimbaram Bay. Apenas dois muros separam minha casa da praia.

Felizmente estou bem e nada aconteceu com a minha casa. Acabei de chegar de Cingapura e hoje cedo fui até o local do atentado.

Todos os dias eu bebo e como um côco verde de café da manhã sentado ali na areia, jogando conversa fora com os blis (nativos) que estão chegando para mais um dia de trabalho.

Esse mesmo local também é o caminho por onde levo meu barco para o mar, um corredor entre as casas em que ficam guardados os barcos locais e um dos restaurantes, local do atentado.

Na volta de minhas expedições pela costa balinesa, depois que coloco o barco na picape, sento ali mesmo e tomo meu côco verde.

Cheguei do aeroporto ontem e no caminho já vi todas as ruas desertas, um quadro totalmente diferente de quando saí daqui, na quarta-feira, com as ruas cheias e o turismo bombando.

Parecia outro lugar. Não sei o que vai acontecer com essa gente agora.

O litro da gasolina, que custava 2,4 mil rúpias, foi pra 4,5 mil e o querosene de cozinha, que é o mais utilizado aqui pelo povo para o preparo de suas refeições, subiu mais de 300%.

Por isso o povo fez tantos protestos contra o aumento súbito dos combustíveis e com um percentual tão alto. Bali estava começando a se recuperar do abalo dos atentados de 2002.

Os terroristas aproveitaram o clima de revolta geral e mais uma vez retaliaram com um ataque a pontos notoriamente freqüentados por turistas.

Botei agora de manhã o barquinho na água com o Beto Saboya na praia de Jimbaram, a mesma da explosão, e tive que usar outra entrada, pois a que eu costumava usar estava bloqueada pela polícia.

Também não parei a picape no lugar de costume, pois havia restos de corpos, vítimas da explosão, no estacionamento onde eu parava o carro anteriormente.

Conversei com um dos funcionários do restaurante e fiquei sabendo que ninguém do staff se feriu, o que me deixou contente, porque durante estes quatro meses de temporada convivi com eles todos os dias.

Agora de tarde uma equipe de especialistas garimpava a areia da praia em busca de pedaços de corpos das famílias que jantavam na hora da explosão no Nyoman Café.

Segundo investigadores que estavam no local das explosões, as bombas da praia de Jimbaram foram acionadas por controle remoto ligados à celulares.

Depois da segunda explosão, os celulares foram desligados numa central, impossibilitando a detonação dos outros três explosivos que estavam enterrados na areia - ao contrário da bomba que explodiu no Kuta Square, comprovadamente um ataque suicida, conforme foi mostrado pela televisão local.

A cena é muito triste em um dos lugares mais pitorescos daqui da ilha. Nem sei o que dizer...

Acabei de chegar de uma cerimônia que estava acontecendo aqui na beira da praia, em que muitos balineses se aglomeravam e buscavam com sua fé e orações a limpeza "kármica" do local.

Os ataques aconteceram a apenas quatro dias dos balineses Hindus celebrarem a vitória do bem sobre o mal no importante dia religioso do Galungan.

Para muitos balineses as bombas são uma afronta direta ao Espírito Sagrado da Celebração do Galungan.

Há uma grande revolta no ar, agravada pelo fato de que alguns dos principais mentores das bombas anteriores ainda estão em liberdade e os que foram presos ainda estão ganhando tempo nos tribunais.

Entre os balineses circulam informações sobre planos dos muçulmanos para tomar a ilha.

Em vez de dar consolo ao povo balinês, a incessante cobertura da mídia indonesiana mostra sempre muito sangue e destruição, e não faz nada além de intensificar o sentimento humilhante de derrota dos balineses, elevando o perfil dos terroristas a vitoriosos conquistadores.

O misto de desespero, dor e ódio é agravado com o isolamento da comunidade balinesa perante o governo geral, e isso vem consumindo pouco a pouco a sociedade.

Alguns líderes religiosos e chefes das comunidades locais receiam que a situação possa tomar a forma de um conflito sócio-religioso.

Eles afirmam categoricamente que querem ver os responsáveis por estas tragédias executados, sem mais julgamentos e sem mais advogados que conseguem de um jeito e de outro postergar uma sentença final.

O número de vítimas desta vez foi bem menor do que o do atentado de 2002, mas as conseqüências desses novos atentados podem ser bem mais devastadoras social e economicamente.

Com isso, Bali perde o que vinha tentando fazer depois de muito trabalho, ou seja, recuperar a confiança dos turistas que vem aqui curtir e descansar na "Ilha dos Mil Templos".

O sucesso da ilha em superar as conseqüências de mais um ataque covarde agora se resume em duas coisas:

- Primeiro: na habilidade do governo central e da comunidade não-balinesa em abraçar e compartilhar a angústia dos balineses, dando todo o suporte, social, psicológico, de segurança e inclusive financeiro (o que é mais difícil) para superar mais uma crise de falta de turistas que com certeza virá.

- Segundo: a habilidade dos balineses em continuar na sua jornada silenciosa sempre com seu sentimento de paz e amor em seus corações. Mas até quando?

Não havia nenhuma lua no céu na noite de sábado para domingo, os balineses observavam o "Tilem", o ritual do lado escuro da lua. O céu estava mais escuro que o normal.

Em uma área sagrada a leste de Denpasar, num templo Hindu, um pastor (guru balinês) disse mansamente à sua congregação: "O verdadeiro problema está bem aí à nossa frente".

Eu tenho mais um mês de permanência aqui na ilha que chora a dor de mais um ataque estúpido, que na minha opinião não tem nada de Al-Qaeda, nem de Osama Bin Laden.

Existe um jogo de interesse muito grande internacional em sempre vincular esses rótulos. O tempo, apenas o tempo, nos dirá o que está por vir.

We need somebody who has the house's culture! hahaha

The situation in my flat is still not quite set up.. Gudan has already left, I got a workmate to move in straight away, but me and Kat haven't taken much care of the cleaning up lately and he got scared with the mess + the cockroaches leaving us right after, hehehe. I decided to clean it all then and another bloke came in yesterday, the problem is just that he seems to be a little too conservative for us.. I don't give a shit, but if they don't get along as roommates I'll have to look for someone else and give him the flick.. is anybody looking for a place here? hehe, Nah, hopefully it won't get to this point. but let me know anyway.

Photo of the moon taken from my bed during one of the last insomnia nights I had. I just gave up to have it for myself and got the camera at bloody 4am or something. Boredom makes u crazy!

The surfing was quite enjoyable this morning, I was suppose to post it right after, my bad.. since then the surf has been crap! We had the australian pro junior in front of my house this weekend held on shit conditions, I couldn't even be bothered to take photos. The weekend was sick, Details ommited as usual though.. I saw bright blue waves and a crazy red moon coming out of the horizon on friday night, and I wasn't on anything!

Leave this camera and go, it's getting late!

Vanilla sky

nice ride