Batman Begins

Photo: What's the point on Bikini or Lingerie contest when we are looking at this girl? Rebecca, from Byron Bay, goes well with anything.

Hahaha, after the accident I’m so broken… I knew I had to start working and there was no time to be too picky. I just gave myself Saturday and Sunday free of this lemon to make the most of that cyclone swell, but on Monday morning I went looking for a job.

My way to get hooked up into gigs is by asking everybody I know if they got anything, so I just called a few mates, then went to school and asked people in the class. This car washing shit came up, a fair way to make up for the damage I’ve been causing to automobiles lately; I was about to take it. On Tuesday though, this girl from Equator that I saw in Bali and now goes to the same class told me about a glassy job at The Bedroom (killer nightclub). How good it sounded! I saw her working there once, dancing around with a tray above her head and smiling through the crowds. It’s fun! I went for a trial in the same night (Tuesday) and it was fine, I mean, bloody fantastic! So many hot girls working in that place, and what’s better: all I had to do was to take the empty glasses and keep the place looking tidy. I was born for tat shit, Hahaha! Joking, but it’s not a bad way to start up on this coast…

I did well, got the job and started in the next night, it went from 10:47pm till 5:21am. There was a bloody Bikini VS Lingerie contest and free Pizza for the whole club, not bad at all! The only boring shit was packing up, but it goes for only one hour out of 7 spent there anyway. Such a Bat life, living up to the nickname given by my flatmates even b4 this job, but sweet ass. I haven’t felt the satisfaction of getting home $100 more rich (or less poor) for 4 months, it was mad! There was still energy left to go surfing, but it was dead flat. Lucky I got this new Ipod, catching buses most of the times sucks. Last nite I was there again, for only 4 hours this time (no packing up!) it was even more fun because I know more people now. Tonight again and so on, hehe. There are no waves and it’s gray, cold and raining at the moment, so all that’s left, really, is the night life, and making money from it is the go.

Gone partying!

Unbelievable, I got on the beach at 12noon for the low tide and found out that the cyclone was still delivering perfect 6 foot plus with the same divine offshore and not many people out! it was a bit smaller and less scary, but the current was stronger. Yesterday some guy disappeared.. fark, it's tough. I was still with my 5'11 and had the best surf in a while, sharing waves with only a coupe of tow in guys out in the first section. my flatmate couldn't make out my baldness and I didn't get any photo of myself on this sunday, but thats fine.. wow, after this swell I'll become a serious bloke and find a bloody job!

The best sunday since the last 7 days

The way out.. we all had to figure out how to avoid the rocks, but sometimes duckdiving meant paying them a visit on the inside. many came back in all shredded and bleeding heaps, if sharks existed there would be a shitload around in this couple of days

Still glassy and almost as big as saturday

So many people watching!

Massive roundhouse

All Time Burleigh

 

Photo: My flatmate has taken this shot of me by accident! I don't even remember this wave actually, the day was that perfect and I would've got so many like this.. my 5'11 given by Ian worked just fine!

This Saturday was unbelievable at Burleigh Point (right where I live!) the cyclone kicked in bringing 6 to 8 foot perfect waves. The current shape of the banks was favourable to handle this size, with big outside sets being consistent enough to get everybody smiling. I surfed for pretty long and took a few photos before and after. damn! today I was supposed to go find a job and the surf gets like this.. today isn't different, I'm off to the point now. 

Sucked in

It was big, indeed. goofy charging

Good small ones on the inside

Backdoor style

It was a half sunny half cloudy day, but fully beautiful

nasty, but stunning

Rare left hander at the point in burleigh

The whole Goldcoast was going off on this saturday

this cunt was actually towed into this wave, there were a couple of jet skys in the line up.

Jaspion: october 2005 - March 2006. Over 5000Km runned with me. Will be missed.

Do you ever feel like screwing it all up?

The last couple of days were shithouse. It all started when I accidentally cut my hair with a trimmer #1. How ugly am I, unbelievable, but nothing that staying 2 weeks at home couldn't fix. After destroying my appearance it was time to do some other shit. I thought about maybe fucking up my sleep, so I bought the Batbed, a black stylish queen-sized airbed I was using in my Batcave, hehe. It went well for one day, until a screw in the wall has turned it into an empty piece of crap. Excellent: no bed and no hair, what else?
I got my car and was on my way back to the store to see if I could get a refund for that shit. My flatmate, Uira, was with me in the car. At a certain stage he told me I couldn�t turn right; I was in a rush and went across three lanes of that highway. The first one was a red light, sweet , through the second one, no incoming cars, but when we got halfway the third and last one there was this white car coming full on towards us. I only had time to say something like �we're up the shit� before it hit jaspion and made the car spin around. It left the ground and the window crashed, Uira's door was fully bent onto him, the other car was far with the collision, the traffic had stopped. To be honest it was quite fun, it felt like we were inside GTA, the game, except because we didn't get off Jaspion to steal the ambulance that showed up and crush a few cops before going to have a big mac and get our wounds healed.
We actually didn't move at all, unlike in the video game version, crashing sucks. I knew I was virtually dead, even though I couldn't feel or see any sort of hurt in myself, I knew that the cunt in the other car would squeeze all my coins off me. Uira wasn't looking very well; he was in shock, way more than me, no wonder: the view of a car coming at 80Km/h towards your door must be killer in itself. He couldn't get off the seat, stuck by the door. His leg was hurt.. a bit of blood and a horrible sensation of being unable to move. I felt guilty, and dead in many senses. On the other hand I found cool to test this limit, one more for my life. We eventually got out of the car and the worst was still to come. My reactions were rather grounded, I handled the cops, ambulance, tow jerks.. so much money lost, at least I got away of a fine because of my not translated license. I still don't know whether if the other lad will suck my money or not, my version was very clear: I was right. Now I gotta wait on a police call and see what happens, but I wouldn't mind being fully refunded, Hahaha, yeah, right.
I had to go to school straight after and do a 30 questions assignments all on my own. Pretty nerve racking.. it's scary how not worried I was even after just losing Jaspion forever
I�m in a destructive period, just by handling my notebook now I broke my pen drive, what the fuck am I doing? I don't know if it can get much worse: no car, no bed, no hair, and no favorite board (it was in the car accident and got a massive creasing)�
That's exactly when art comes up. Gone painting.

RIP Jaspion

I spoke to my mum last night, and to some other people I love. It made see that being in one piece is the go, definitely. I just gotta be able to tell my body what I want it to do and have it working fine, all the rest is replaceable. Well, I spent all day today trying to convince my body to stand up and go find a job, but it wouldn’t answer… just technical problems, I suppose, woke up fucked by the impact of the crash, but hopefully it will try and cope tomorrow.

Nah, I�m still alive and well. My hair will have grown to an acceptable level in 12 days, 5 hours and 34 minutes� time, I still can stand up and find a job (nooooooooooo) to make some money and get things going well again. About a new car? just after visiting Brazil, I suppose. My life was way too easy, seriously, not even the WCT pros were having as much fun, and I hanged out with some to make sure. I had to come back to the real world� this crash has forced me to, in fact, but if it didn�t happen I would get too used to the dream and any kind of happiness coming from the standard universe would be faced as not as good. Maybe I would never smile again! Not for a normal 3 seconds barrel or for an average looking girl conquering. But I want to, because this is the reality! I don�t want to believe that the only real surfing lies at Greenmouth 4-5 foot endless barrels or that the only real girls are models or extra-cute feminine birds, though I love it all, of course. But I needed to slow down my life�s quality.
What the hell am I saying? No, I didn�t really want to, this fucking accident made me do it, all I�m trying to do now is to find reasons that make me feel better about it, that�s the true. I know exactly what I like and where I want to get, losing my car doesn�t help at all, I can tell you that. If my life was that good is because I planned it to be like that, at least for my first months on the coast. I knew it was time to act and go doing some boring things, shit, I didn�t need to fuck it all up to learn that. Maybe it has taught me to pay a bit more attention on the road though� oh well, I do acknowledge that I was finding it a bit tough to even think about quitting the lifestyle I was having up to now and go working, so lets welcome this crash and see Jaspion�s sacrifice as a contribution to my blossoming. Haha, great warrior Jaspion, my third car in this country, the third that dies in my hands too, but it can�t be called a lemon; it had bravely survived to many gnarly situations and been always up to it. Rest in peace my metallic friend.

Not the best time to get rid of my hair.. it's getting colder!

Already bald, but still with a bed on Wednesday.

Tallows, at Byron. Great fun on this weekend

I went to Byron by myself for 3 days on this weekend. It was unreal.. I still cant get over how amazing it was. About the waves, in the first day (Friday) I got a few choppy ones at Tallows and tiny ones at the Pass, as the quality was shit, I went partying hard in this night with the local crew. On saturday Tallows was so smashable! It felt like arpoador (home) but less crowded. The night was good again and on Sunday morning there were a few fun little right hand barrels.

Natural mirror at The Pass (Byron Bay)

The Pass' long wet sands

Melllow, rippable waves at Tallows (Byron Bay) on saturday

Yeah, new stick! Ian, a long date friend, has sent me this magic 5'11 Electra from Hawaii through Guto, who has just arrived back in oz. I'm stoked with the gift. With the 2 boards I already had, the 5'10 fish I bought recently and this one now, I got 4 boards again! the same number I had before the incident at Coffs Harbour. Thanks heaps Ian, I'll catch u soon Mr Goofy!

Ian charging back in Ipanema. That's a hell one!

Shit sorted

Hey, yeah, finally done.. now I'm just bludgin' in the class again.
For the loss, It wasnt so bad, the wallet only had a bit of money anyway.. I'll keep the same mobile number (0433883034), so no worries. The surf is pretty good now, but I woke up sick yesterday. got better now, so should go for a session soon and then probably Byron Bay over the weekend.

Fuck Fuck Fuck!

Big time.. Some cunt has broken into Jaspion today and taken my bloody wallet and mobile phone! I only had 20 bucks in there anyway, but couldn't the fucker leave my documents alone? oh well.. I'm trying to do an assignment at school now but couldn't get this shit off of my head, so I just thought I would stop and put it down..

Some good things happening too.. Hugo, one of my flatmates, has bought the sickest toy I've ever seen: a waterproof 6.0 digital camera! we went to stradie today but ended up surfing 3 foot fun walls at Burleigh Point. looooads of photos and films! will post tonight.

I'll have to get back into it now, 800 freaking words essay for tomorrow..

Troy Brooks, Expression session winner with 2 supermans executed in one wave. sick mada faca!

After dashing Bobby Martinez, Slater has won the 2006 Quick Pro in a mad final against Taj Burrow. Not a bad way to open the year! Hopefully he will think twice before leaving the tour after this result

Kelly Slater... how could anyone beat him? The man made unbelievable scores in all his heats even in the small conditions.

Adriano "Mineirinho" de Souza will certainly be something to talk about in 2006, a third place in the Quick Pro was definitely a great start

Taj Burrow has ended Mineirinho's hope in an amazing semi-final heat

Small but beatiful waves in the last day

Heaps going on

 

Today (9/3. but its past midnight)we had the whole round 4 and the quarters. In spite of the shitty conditions, great surfing was shown all day at Duranbah, particularly by Kelly Slater, Adriano de Souza, Taj Burrow, Andy Irons and Raoni Monteiro. Two of those have already left the competition. We'll continue tomorrow with the semi finals and hope that Mineirinho wins! I brushed school today for the first time, hehe, wouldn't miss the comp for the world! Here are some photos and comments that I spent my night doing. I hope you enjoy it!

This photo: Mineirinho has left Taylor Knox in a combination situation using his modern and, at the same time, powerful manouvers in the last heat of the day. 

It seems so easy for this kid to fly!

Taylor Knox trying to keep up with Adriano de Souza

Galego and Pitoco doing their job. Ooops, I think they might need reinforcement!

Taj Burrow was faster than ever and won the quarter final agains the Hawaiian Andy Irons in a great heat.

Andy Irons didn't find many waves in this heat.

Taj Burrow

"I'll get u back for that Taj!" Andy doesn't really like losing very much, even if his opponent is the fastest surfer in the world.

Kelly Slater, gnarly as hell, I wonder if he will ever lose a heat in his life if he keeps up the surfing I saw today.

In the way that Raoni surfed, he could probably beat any other surfer but Kelly Slater is just crazy right now and unfortunately the Carioca didn't make it through the quarters.

Slater

The man

Mineirinho left no choices for Darren O'raffey in the last heat of round 4, the brazilian is an air reverse machine!

Taj Burrow making it complicate for Marcelo Nunes in the heat 6 of the 4th round today.