Tuesday, March 28, 2006


Unbelievable, I got on the beach at 12noon for the low tide and found out that the cyclone was still delivering perfect 6 foot plus with the same divine offshore and not many people out! it was a bit smaller and less scary, but the current was stronger. Yesterday some guy disappeared.. fark, it's tough. I was still with my 5'11 and had the best surf in a while, sharing waves with only a coupe of tow in guys out in the first section. my flatmate couldn't make out my baldness and I didn't get any photo of myself on this sunday, but thats fine.. wow, after this swell I'll become a serious bloke and find a bloody job!

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