I made good friends and everyone was heaps supportive about my plans when I get back in Australia. We shared great waves in the last few days and then headed back to Bali. But not before I sprained my ankle in my last session. I was a tad frustrated because in the best day of them all I surfed tiger tracks during the crowd period then went out in G-land at 12:30, the very time lunch is served and the tide was lower. The waves were fantastic and I shared it with only one guy. Definitely the best surfing session I had this year as yet. I was truly stoked, but when I went for a lap at bobby’s that night and saw the photos from the morning I couldn’t believe it. Cunts standing up tall in kegs was something normal, absolutely sick. I did get those waves, but obviously the photographer wasn’t there for only me and another dude. I sort of wished I surfed with the other sheep so I would get some photos of that magic session. I did exactly that the next day, went out with everyone else hoping to get a good souvenir shot. Totally regretted it. Way too many cunts out there, I had to bring my standards of selection down and ended up taking off on a white close out that was heavy but didn’t barrel that wide. I got hit by the lip and with the booties my front foot didn’t slide off, being crushed against the board. I was hurting like fuck. I got a couple more and came in when I realized it was impossible to pull tricks.

It didn’t matter though, it was my last day there anyway..