After a busy weekend ODing on surfing, the bomb was upon us. Monday was by far the best day I’ve ever seen in Kirra. 8 feet glassy and barreling off its tits. Most people being towed… the best of the local crew were there charging it.. I was stuck at fucken work.. knowing how good it was.. They now gave me the keys to the shop.. Twice a week I go there on my own, open it, do a 9 to 5ver, count the money and go home.. that means I can’t surf in these 2 days.. oh well.. The next day was still epic, the wind shifted to straight offshore and the beaches were bullshit. I’ve never thought I would see Surfers Paradise copping 8 footers that clean. There was nothing out of place, massive kegs were on offer, but the paddle out was pretty crazy. It looked a lot like Puerto Escondido, in Mexico. If there was any day I would point out as the most impressive and best looking this would probably be it, spewing I didn’t have my camera. I got my mate’s 7’1 and went outta front of my old place in Surfers. That was the biggest surf in a few years for me.. but nothing too exciting to say about it really. I was stoked for catching a few but nothing really outstanding happened.
Wednesday was probably my best performance.. Went out in Greenmount with Ross and ended up in Kirra in no time.. Got one special keg that was worth the whole swell to me.. the one I was waiting for. I was heaps stoked, it made me fantasize what Kirra woulda been like back in the day.
Pics: not very inviting low tide Kirra on one of the 12 straight days of big swell;
In the same day, bloke showing how it’s done in between sets;
Goofy footer in immaculate position down the line in Kirra;
Coolie Hotel.. After the Ct I spent a whole month away from it. The waves were way too good to be with a hangover lol