Tuesday, April 14, 2009




The Weekend after that one was still going off. After getting a few around the Coolie area on Saturday, we were drinking before going for a lap at the pub. Before we could even get changed, something better came up: let’s go to Angourie! Fuck yeah, good old Tiago was still sober and drove us down. We had 2 tents but decided to spend the night napping in the car cause there was an annoying rain about. To seal the deal, a morning sickness onshore kept us in the car snoozing for another 3 hours before it straightened. Tchelao went for a wave at 6am anyway. That was great, cause he ended up taking some shots of us from 9 to 10. Angourie is a seriously delicious fucken wave. Its bowly shape resembling of sunset invites one to smash it. I was surfing real bad at the start, used to the speedy, ever forward walls of the Superbanks.. it took me about 10 waves to readapt to this unique wave. Its wall is always marching towards you.. Although it’s a right hander, it’s gotta be surfed as if you were going left. At some stage I thought Tchelao was done photographing and paddled to the first section. Got a few for myself there.. usually only bodyboarders go for that section.. but I seem to agree a lot with them lids in taste for waves. I ate shit a thousand times, but nothing is more fun in surfing for me than sucky right handers on a dry reef, even when it works me.
We had the best time hanging in our little tent set on the rocks and surfing those waves 3 hours south from home. One of Tiago’s photos even made Coastalwatch! That was pretty sick. I know that this is the time of the year I’m supposed to be working.. but fuck it’s always fun anyway!
There are plans to bail again.. it’s no secret, everybody knows it already.. Im off to Brazil for business in late May till late July.. then off to Indo for Hols.. not too original I know.. but what else can I do? Those 2 places and Australia are everything to me! hehe
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